Routes - Research and Recommendations

From Greg Yanagihara's Summitpost:

WEST BUTTRESS

The West Buttress has been derided as “the Denali Iditarod”, “the Scenic Loop”, and “the Handicapped Access Ramp”. Although there are no technically difficult sections on the route, many stretches of “The Butt” leave very little margin for error. Furthermore, the West Buttress is just as exposed as any other route to McKinley's legendary weather. Prospective climbers should be highly competent in travel on moderately steep snow/ice slopes and exposed traverses. Denali’s unusually high casualty list is due in large part to inexperienced or exhausted climbers tripping on a crampon tip and falling off seemingly easy snow/ice slopes. 

The most popular camps are located at 7,200 ft (base camp); 7,800 ft; 9,500 ft; 11,000 ft; 14,200 ft; and 17,200 ft, some of which are equipped with latrines. Other camps are located at 12,500 ft and 16,000 ft, but should only be used under ideal weather conditions as the 12,500 ft camp is vulnerable to avalanches and the 16,000 ft camp is very exposed to high winds. The 11,000 ft camp also experiences avalanches and serac fall, and care should be taken to avoid these two hazards when setting up camp. Above 14,200 ft, snow caves or igloos are usually constructed as a back up shelter in case bad weather moves in.

Total horizontal length of the West Buttress route is approximately 13 miles with about 13,500 ft of vertical gain. Between base camp and 11,000 ft, the route is relatively flat and the main hazards are crevasse falls. Above 11,000 ft, the route steepens to moderate slopes (35-45 degrees) alternating with flat benches and bowls. Equipment and supplies are typically carried by sled to 11,000 ft. Above 11,000 ft, gear and food are usually ferried between camps in two trips.

West Buttress expeditions average around 16-17 days, but climbers should take at least 3 weeks of supplies. A 2-3 day supply of food and fuel should be left at base camp in case weather prevents planes from landing on the glacier (climbers have been stranded for as long as 2 weeks due to inclement weather). 

OTHER ROUTES

The KARSTENS RIDGE/MULDROW GLACIER was the route of first ascent and used to be the standard route before Bradford Washburn pioneered the West Buttress route. This route is similar in difficulty as the West Buttress, but receives far less traffic. Expeditions are, on average, a week longer than West Buttress trips because of the longer approach from Wonder Lake. More adventurous climbers will attempt “the Traverse”, by ascending the West Buttress and descending Karstens Ridge or vice versa. The Traverse is more strenuous than doing either route alone because climbers must haul all equipment and supplies over Denali Pass whereas climbers doing one route or another typically cache equipment and supplies that are not needed higher up on the mountain.

For some Denali afficionados, the WEST RIB is the next step after completing the West Buttress or Karstens Ridge, but it represents a pretty big step up in skill and experience. The route involves moderate to steep snow as well as mixed snow and rock. Like the West Buttress, many climbers underestimate the West Rib and most of its accidents are attributed to inexperience or overconfidence. Many perceive the West Rib as tame because it is relatively easy to retreat from if they find themselves in over their heads. This does not mean that the climbing itself is easy.

Climbers completing the CASSIN RIDGE find themselves in a small fraternity of elite Alaska climbers. The route ascends the prominent ridge on the 8,000 foot south face that ends a few hundred yards west of the summit. It is steep, demanding, and committing. As a result, frivolous accidents are rare on the Cassin Ridge because only the most experienced climbers will think of attempting it.